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Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Tikal

Monday we left Belize and headed back into Guatemala to meet Terry and Linzi near Tikal. We found them lounging poolside, overlooking the lake in El Ramate. We learned that Linzi had been sick and Leslie and I were tired so we decided to hang out for the afternoon and go to Tikal the next day.

Next morning we grabbed breakfast at the hotel stashed our bags behind the counter and headed off walking to catch a bus to Tikal. All the busses that drove by were private tours and wouldn't stop for us. We finally caught a ride and made it to Tikal.

At 150Q per person, it seemed outrageously expensive to enter the park! But I guess around $20 isn't so crazy for an area that is being protected and restored. It was just so much more than we were used to seeing in Guatemala, the 25Q price for locals listed just below probably also made our price stand out.

A hundred yards after leaving the parking lot we came upon a huge ceiba tree. The trunk must have been nearly 8' in diameter straight up for 60' before branching out. The trunk grows fin-like roots for lateral support, making the base of the trunk look like some big organic rocketship. The branches above were covered in bromiliads, ferns, and other plants and flowers. All in all an amazing and beautiful tree! We spent several minutes just in awe of and appreciating this incredible organism!

We spent the afternoon wandering about the jungle, climbing temples and exploring the ruins. Tikal is a pretty fantastic place. The view from the top of the first temple we climbed has apparently made it into several movies, including one of the original Star Wars films. From there you can see the peaks of four or five other temples poking up above the rich jungle canopy.

Several temples we weren't allowed to climb the steps of. There have been several deaths by people losing their balance and toppling 300' down steep stone steps to the ground. Although one temple they have roped off the original steps, and built a wooden staircase, little more than a glorified ladder, which has the same rise and a third the run of the original, steep stairway! We watched some people really struggle on those stairs. Clinging desperately to the rail and descending one shaky and timid step at a time.

We saw howler and capuchin monkeys, and we spent a long time in one area watching a group of 20 or more coatimundi rooting about for food, lounging in the trees and some fighting and chasing eachother around squeaking and huffing! One snuck up behind us and tried to steal Terry and my backpacks which we'd set down beside us. Because we were right on the top of a small hill, the coati managed to knock one backpack loose and it tumbled 25' down the hill. No real harm done, but Terry's pack now has a small coati teeth hole in it. I'd say that's even cooler than a patch that you could buy to show where you've been!

Quite a few animals wandering about Tikal, the monkeys and coatimundi, big irridescent turkey-like birds, lizards and heaps of other birds from parrots to woodpeckers. Next time, I think it would be fun to stay at the campground in the park and get up early to see all the animals. Sometimes there are jaguars, ocelots, maybe a tapir and all the birdlife all up and active right around dawn.

We missed the first bus we'd talked about taking back. And just made it out to the parking lot in time for the next one. It's easy to get carried away exploring the ruins. We headed back, picked up our bags in El Ramate and headed back into Flores. Stopped and bought Terry and Linzi's tickets for the night bus to Guatemala City, then showered and had fondue with Terry and Linzi for dinner at a little place on the waterfront in Flores.

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